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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 107 total)
  • #4035
    RVB

    stephan;4734 wrote: I think the HC100 is a great addition (and you get automaticall “CS” with it) to the S-Lenses, and as the sensor of the S is a bit smaller you get the best out of the lens.

    HC 100/2.2 and S 180 with Elpro

    Sorry for the strong postprocessing but I don't like to show my work without it (looks so unfinished)

    Good point about the smaller sensor,it uses the sharpest area of the lens..

    I actually like the cross processed look a lot,it's very attractive when done properly..

  • #4033
    RVB

    stephan;4730 wrote: I fully agree with you, the fact that Leica ommited to use a focus-limiter makes the 120 almost unusable for fashion and portrait (for me). Btw I wait for a “real” portrait lens like a Summicron 100 or so 🙂

    This said, the 180 is much better for portrait, you get a faster AF, but due to the longer range you need a bit more light for shorter shutter speeds. Also, I feel that I get a bit to distant to the model. For me the Hasselblad HC 100 and HC 150 work very well for me too.

    Here another one from this shooting with the 180 (without Elpro, of course)

    Another lovely shot,I have a HC100mm,I will get a H adaptor and give it a whirl,on the blad its a great lenses with lovely character and very sharp in the center..

    I used to think that 180 was too long for portrait but I have used the HC210 quite a bit lately and I could get used to it and the compression is nice..

  • #4029
    RVB

    stephan;4722 wrote: I love to do portraits with the 180 and the Elpro, even if I think it's not that easy to use

    Lovely portrait with great catchlights in the eyes,I have this lens on order,what is the AF speed like?I have the S120 but it hunts a little too much for fast portrait work…(pity Leica didn't add a focus limiter to it)

    Rob

  • #3808
    RVB

    Jack MacD;4479 wrote: RVB,
    Yes .8 times 24 is indeed 19.2 not 18.6.
    This was a test for Josh and David and either:
    1. neither saw my error in reporting or
    2. were too nice to think they should correct the error, or
    3. starting to worry that I would want to return the lens to Solms to have them make it a 23.25 mm.
    4. Too busy preparing for the Everglades trip to notice.
    5. Told me the number is 18.6 until after the price increase and then it goes to 19.2.

    The answer is #4.

    I like #5 most.. 😀

    Robert

  • #3802
    RVB

    Jack MacD;4468 wrote: This is the full frame of the 24mm on top matched for size with the full frame of the 18mm of the WATE shown below the 24mm. Having the plane of the sensor nudge a half an inch or so in location may make more a difference than 18mm vs 18.6mm. While they were both on the same tripod sequentially, I was not as precise as I wanted to be. I used the same leveling tools on both cameras and there was a 0.7 degree difference that I straightened for these images.

    I did this to confirm that I can sell the WATE should I want to.

    Does the new S have really precise leveling meters?

    Hi Jack,are you sure the S24 is 18.6m equivalent?Is the multiplication factor not .8 which would make it 19.2mm?

  • #3774
    RVB

    andyc;4439 wrote: Hi Steve
    I do not have the facilities for this type of test but I have taken many outside Building shots where verticals need correcting using my CS5 software and these are good but not perfect (every radial distortion correction results in a fault elsewhere however slight it might be)…I have never used Lightroom and its built in Lens correction adjustment..
    However, I would not recommend this Lens for exacting interiors as is your need, there are obvious drawbacks to Zooms. I found the edges softer than the 30mm Prime and ‘Barrel' was obvious the closer you were to the subject on top of focal length.
    I am sorry not to be of any help to you and would suggest maybe a wide PC Lens on Nikon or for Medium format… Hasselblad offer a tilt/shift adapter for their own HS Lens ranges, great for converging verticals albeit time consuming.

    You can use the Hasselblad TS adaptor on the S…

  • #3709
    RVB

    ciracrowell;4371 wrote: The 24 may be my new favorite lens. It's not too big… but the images it gets are tremendous. Just posted a sunset shot to my red-dot blog taken hand-held in last light. So yes, the 24 is a lovely addition. Highly recommended.

    I agree,It's a gem…

  • #3708
    RVB

    peterv;4370 wrote: Thanks for sharing the DNG. Incredible DOF, nice color and contrast. Are you going to use the lens for landscapes?

    Peter

    Peter,probably cityscape's and some landscape,But also interior's,architecture and even environmental portraits.. I would probably use the s30mm first for landscape as the s24 can push things too far away..the S24 is best choice over the 30mm when you want to get in close and fill the foreground

    Best

    Rob

  • #3699
    RVB

    Single shot with minimal PP,process in C1P7… C1 does an excellent job with S file's,only caveat is lack of tool's for dealing with C.A's.. you dont see C.A's very often with these lenses but still a L.R4 style tool for mitigating C.A would be nice..

    I have used a experience with some very good wide angle's including the TSE17 and Nikkor 14-24 and also the Zeiss 15mm,But this S lens is fantastic..

  • #3698
    RVB

    This is a 3shot hdr with the S24,,,

    and here is one of the DNG's

    https://www.yousendit.com/download/UVJoSXQrUzc4aVBtcXNUQw

  • #3694
    RVB

    peterv;4354 wrote: Thanks for sharing, Rob. I'd be interested to see more of the 24 mm. BTW, I recognise the area where you took these, I used to live in Amsterdam for almost 25 years.

    hi Peter,

    I will post a few more DNG's asap..a few more shots from around the Dam to bring back a few memory's for you.. 🙂

    Rob

  • #3688
    RVB

    rsmphoto;4347 wrote: Hmm, seems to be an odd uneveness to the sky in this shot. Was this corrected in any way? Polarized at all?

    Thanks for posting these.

    Richard

    I would hesitate to use a polarizer on a lens this wide,but if you do it takes 95mm filters.. I would like the option of N.D filter,I am considering the 95mm True Match Variable from schneider or one from Heliopan or rodenstock..

    Still the polarizer can be useful for other things like cutting out reflections in glass or water..

  • #3687
    RVB

    rsmphoto;4350 wrote: Thanks for sending. Yes, I see it's in the DNG as-is. I'm still puzzled by the apparent density change center-to-edge in the sky, almost a reverse of what I'd expect on an uncorrected shot with a 24. Could be atmospheric, I suppose, but just looks odd to me. Have you tried any other shots that include an known evenly lit background?

    Many thanks.

    Not yet,I have only just opened the box yesterday even though I have it a few weeks,but I will make a point of posting a few more shots of evenly lit backgrounds.. on balance I am impressed so far..

    Rob

  • #3685
    RVB

    Here is a backlit shot.. straight into the sun,, there is streaking but I find this happens with CCD's.. nevertheless the lens handles the scene well,easily dealing with the dark branches against the bright background with hardly a trace of C.A..

    Attached files

  • #3684
    RVB

    rsmphoto;4347 wrote: Hmm, seems to be an odd uneveness to the sky in this shot. Was this corrected in any way? Polarized at all?

    Thanks for posting these.

    Richard

    Hi Richard,very little pp and no polarizer.. here is the raw if you want to take a look..

    https://www.yousendit.com/download/UVJpWmdtRSt1Yk85TE5Vag

    best

    Rob

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 107 total)