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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 267 total)
  • #28361
    Jack MacD

    Additionally, the latest RedDotForum show on the M11 said the M10M gives us two stops of ISO performance.

  • #28353
    Jack MacD

    Do you just shoot B&W? If so, I get the idea that the M11 shooting converted B&W may match, but not exceed the M10M. Therefore not a reason to change.
    I have a M10M and an M11. When I want to shoot B&W I use the M10M. Having a B&W camera helps me concentrate on structure rather than color. The issue for me will be if when the M11M comes out, if I want to upgrade.
    But I will be influenced by how much I like the M11 and if I want battery compatibility. Fortunately my budget can afford more than one M and having two M’s allows me both a back up, and the ability to sometimes carry two cameras with two different focal lengths at the same time. If my budget was less, and I shot more color, I might have just traded the Mono in on the M11. Good luck on your decision.
    Jack

  • #27073
    Jack MacD

    Mike,
    I have not used either the 35 1.4 older model or the 28 2.0 for astrophotography. I don’t believe vignetting is an issue with the 21 but if that’s not your preferred field of view, go with a 35. You have also reduced your cost. What is the issue is what ISO works best on your Sony. If you are willing to shoot at say 3,200 you don’t need 1.4 on the 35mm to “freeze” star movement. Go with a 2.0 but more modern lens. Using the NPF rule, with your Sony you can stop movement as long as you’re exposure is under 6 seconds, right? What I don’t know is what ISO you need for that 6 seconds, unless you are exposure stacking. Of course if you want star trails, you can do low ISO and as long an exposure as you wish.
    Jack


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  • #27069
    Jack MacD

    That’s an easy choice but not inexpensive.
    21mm 1.4.
    Lucky for you, the Leica Store Miami has one used as well as new.


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  • #26021
    Jack MacD

    Well, I used the 007 at ISO 3,200 again, but the reason was I needed it to be able to use motion capturing of water at 1/400 sec f8 in this Triptych set.
    Three separate shots that were then printed on 40″x60″ metal panels


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  • #24560
    Jack MacD

    OK,
    I returned to the scene using three new bits of technology.
    !. An M10M which allows for very high ISO and high resolution.
    2. Remote firing of the M10M via LeicaFOTOS, and allows a self portrait if you look very closely.
    3. A 12mm lens. The shot is ISO 20,000, f4.0. 1/15


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  • #22214
    Jack MacD

    John,
    For a safari you will want a fast telephoto lens as the animals are not always within 10 feet during the day. Many times at dusk or dawn in low light. Yes amping up the iso will help. Yes digitally zooming in your 23 will help. But consider renting a tele zoom or prime.
    But you asked about filters. The coating on today’s lenses is very sturdy. Bring a lot of lens cleaners. Things get very dusty. Protect your lenses with lens shades. They are better for protection. Oh, and my hero in the field never even bothers to use lens caps. On a safari you will just lose the caps and they slow you down.

    That aside, I do have a filter over my 18mm as I want to keep it a pancake and do not want it with a lens shade when I am putting it in my pocket. I do not have a lens cap in that lens.

    Finally, consider renting an extra CL for having the wide on one body and the tele on the other. Then you don’t have to change lenses in dusty conditions. Also faster.

  • #13486
    Jack MacD

    Dale,
    If a camera does not have enough “latitude” or Dynamic range, the solution as you suggested would be HDR via combining two or more images. I used to do that and it required a tripod usually, no motion in the subject like the moving cars, and I still didn't like the result very often. Probably my fault.

    With enough dynamic range as with the 007, I can use the shadow and highlight sliders at 100% left and right to achieve what I want anyway. David Farkas mentioned he does that too. Perhaps he or others can give a reply that could explain why. For me, it just works, and I am glad that it does.

  • #13480
    Jack MacD

    Dale,
    This shows the before and after LR to show how much in in the shadows of a 007 shot


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  • #13477
    Jack MacD

    Dale,
    The issue turned out to be file size.
    If this one goes up, we know 1.5 m can work.
    If it doesn't, then I go to a mere .5m

    Used to be David allowed huge files, up to 20M. I think when he revised the forum, that changed.
    Jack


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  • #13272
    Jack MacD

    trying even smaller


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  • #13253
    Jack MacD

    Turns out I was sending too big a file, let's see if this works?


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  • #13246
    Jack MacD

    try again on the file


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  • #13244
    Jack MacD

    Same view in morning fog 007 zoom


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  • #13185
    Jack MacD

    This shows the beginning image as LR adjustment. Yes this wold have been achievable with a ND grad filter, but the building would have been an issue.
    It used to be that PS was required to do this, now it can be done in LR.


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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 267 total)