Member Edwin Cedeno

Good to hear it worked out.

While I'd highly encourage you to try your hand at Lightroom so you can edit more efficiently, do what works best for you. As far as getting LR presets into ACR, you could try the method outlined here:

Photoshop Lightroom Tips | How to Create Camera Raw Presets From Lightroom Presets

David, thank you so much for these. Excellent work and explanation.

Depending on file associations on your computer, your OS might think the XML files belong in a text editor. Try right-clicking and selecting “Save As…”

Correct. Adoabe changed over from .lrtemplate to XML a while back. As I noted in the article, the presets are designed for the latest version of Lightroom Classic CC. I understand the desire to have a standalone program, but (at least for me), the benefits of continual development and improvement on the subscription model far outweigh the $10/month charge.

Hi David.
Great Presets! Thanks, And great YouTube Broadcasts. I really enjoy them, Although it starts at 3AM here (Israel) 🙂
I have noticed that the Monochrom presets are still giving me color photos. Am I missing anything?

Awesome!

Yes, unfortunately, Adobe isn't without their quirks. When I first uploaded the preset files, a few of them had buggy code that caused this behavior. I edited the code and re-uploaded the preset files. I'd recommend re-downloading the M9M preset and importing that one. Should fix the issue.

Hi David, thank you for sharing your presets. I have just purchased a Monocrom 246 which, besides iPhones, is my first digital camera. I have spent quite a bit of time searching the internet for help and advice on working with the files in Lightroom. I feel your preset gives me a good starting point on which to ‘develop' my images. Thank you

Glad you got it figured out. Someone else had left a similar comment.

You never lose the DNG. The beauty of Lightroom is that it is completely non-destructive. Your underlying file is untouched – Lightroom is just applying a set up instructions and showing you the result. To go back to default, just click the Reset button in the lower right of the Develop module. That will remove any adjustments made to the file. Alternatively, you could also roll back to the first step in the History tab on the left of the Develop module.

For the M8, I'd recommend trying the M9 preset. I did on my end and the results were quite good.

Thank you for your presets. They are just as advertised – a wonderful starting point for editing. In many cases, our pictures need very little adjustments.

We have one camera which may not be very popular but does produce excellent pictures. It is the Leica C-Lux. Would any of your presets be good for this camera? If not, do you have any thoughts of what we should do to create our own preset? We are very impressed with your knowledge about CMOS versus CCD. Possibly the C-Lux has some idiosyncrasies?

Thank all of you for your great talks.

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't create these presets to be completely uniform across all cameras. Rather, just what seems to work well for most of my images shot with those cameras. Indeed, they are subjective. You can always use the Q2 profile as a starting point for the SL2 if you prefer the result.

Great preset for the SL2. I not only like the results but the family noticed an improvement right away. Geez, more evidence I need to continuing along my learning curve. In addition to the SL2, I also have a C-Lux. Would any of your presets work for C-Lux images? If not, do you have any guidance to get me going along the right path?

No bug. I tend to expose for the highlights, which often means underexposing by 2/3-1 stop. So, I do build that in to my preset. The added exposure is also there to counteract some of the other corrections tendency to pull the image darker than intended.

David,

I just now found these Presets, and I am very grateful for them.

Do you, by any chance, have an S(007) profile to match the S(006), similar to what you did for the M9? I've tried this without much success. Even a hint to your methodology, if that isn't revealing secrets, would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Matt

David, first of all, I hope you're doing well.
I use Sigma lenses in my SL Type 601 (bought in Leica Store Miami…). Sigma lenses have automatic “Built-in profile applied”. When I use your Lightroom profile, the Adobe Lens Corrections applies over the Built-In. I think lens corrections are applied twice, one over another.
In the .XMP file (your profile) there is a line with this command:
crs:LensProfileEnable=”1″
Can I put “0” instead to prevent the double correction?
Do you think it can solve the problem?
Thanks

The standard M10 preset should work fine for the M10-R.

Thanks for this, how’s it going with the M10R presets?

Congrats on the M246. Sweet camera.

Correct. The M240 preset will work perfectly for the M262 as they share the same sensor and digital pathway.

It's a good start. The cameras do have very similar rendering. I will eventually be updating to add the new SL2-S and M10-R to the preset list.

Does the SL2-S use the same preset as the SL2? Just asking as I use the CL and Q preset and like those, but have a SL2-S on it's way

Hi David, two questions on this article:
1) Do you have plan to update presets for newly released camera, such as Q2 Monochrom, SL2-S, M10-R, etc.?
2) Do you have the chance to test if these presets work in other versions of LR?
Thanks
Joseph

From my experience, RNI film profiles (search for RNI All Films 5, not 4!) work really well with M/SL files. RNI uses some kind of dynamic camera profiling under the hood, so the same film profiles work for my both M10 and SL2 cameras and the output between the two is quite consistent. Can't recommend it enough.

David,
Do you have a preset for the Q2 Monochrom?
Thanks

You don’t need my original files. But you will need to apply the preset to two different images – one at low ISO and one at high ISO – as a starting point. Adjust both images, then create a new ISO Adaptive preset from there. Hope that helps!

Great piece, David: my first stop when getting a new Leica Camera. Do you have presets yet for the M10R?

Thank you for your Pre-sets… I Just bought my first Leica (T) and exploring the differences is amazing. I am a current user of Lumix s1R and I have my eye on the SL2. Thank you again, it helped me a lot.

David,
Thank you. You wrote an extremely thoughtful and detailed explanation of the S lens system. You included some outstanding images too. It was fun to recognize the ones from the S2 autumn trip a few years ago. You brought back excellent memories.

Great article and lovely pictures. I am a semi-retired professional who was able to migrate over from a Contax 645 to a Leica S007, via the Contax adapter, thus “saving” my full inventory of Zeiss lenses. As you said, both autofocus and autoexposure work quite well so this “hybrid” solution has worked for me, and the S007 has been a joy to use.

Terrific primer on the S system lenses. Thanks for all this useful info.

No. The Leica S3 will not have IBIS. Functionally, the S3 is near identical to the S007, but with a dramatically improved sensor, both in terms of resolution and ISO performance.

You are correct. The marked focal length will behave as such on an SL. A 100mm S lens is a 100mm lens on your SL. On the S, it has the field of view of an 80mm, but the look of a 100mm. So, compared to the 90mm, you will be getting a slightly longer 100mm lens, with a bit more compression and a bit narrower field of view.

One more time, just to make sure I understand correctly… the S lenses labeled focal length (100mm, for example) is the equivalent to the 35mm field of view, correct? Meaning, if I were to mount the Summicron-S 100mm f/2 on an SL2 with the adapter, I'd expect to get a 100mm field of view. It is on the S system, with the larger sensor, where the .8x math comes into play, and that 100mm equates to a wider, 80mm field of view. Right?

I ask becuase I am an SL owner and am intrigued by the Summicron-S 100mm lens and want to understand whether I should expect a slightly *longer* or slightly *wider* field of view with that lens than with the Summicron-SL 90mm. (I totally understand there are a ton of other attributes to consider between these lenses, but I want to wrap my head around field of view first.)

One more time for my sanity… I am asking this question as a SL2 owner, not an S owner: If I am interested in the Summicron-S 100mm f/2, should I expect a 100mm field of view on my SL2 (with the adapter, of course), or 80mm?

Based on your explanation, it is my understanding that the 100mm f/2 lens adapted to my SL2 will deliver a 100mm field of view and a maximum aperture (DOF) of f/1.5. (thus, the colloquial reference to that lens being the Noctilux of the S line, I take it?). Is this correct?

I am asking basically to gather whether to expect the Summicron-S 100mm to be a longer or shorter lens, in terms of field of view on the SL2, than the 90mm Summicron-SL.

Great overview but you neglected to mention the Leica T-S Apo-Elmar-S. This is a great lens for product and landscape applications and gets very little press.

Good catch. Article updated with correct value for the 100mm. Math is hard. 🙂

Really incredible images, David. Like many Leica products, it is nice to see how even the original S lenses released (30mm and APO 120mm) in 2008, are still relevant with the S3 in color and resolution. Looking forward to seeing more!

Thank you David, great photos !

Small copy/paste error. Sorry for that. We fixed it.

It's not really a move to 14-bit color. The S (Typ 007) also used 14-bit precision from the D/A stage as well. Both the S3 and the S007 store the resulting 14-bit raw data in a 16-bit DNG container, and both are capable of 15+ stops of dynamic range. For full details, check out the article we published around the launch of the S007, based on a conversation with Dr. Volker Zimmer, the head of R&D for Leica.

Why Leica is staying at 37.5MP for the S (Typ 007)

Could you comment on the AF system using the OVF . It appears the same as the S 007 . Focus point is only the center ..predictive AF is still suspect . It is still a contrast detection auto focus system ?
I understand the AF in LV and it was fine for my use but the OVF AF system needed work ?

I too strive to travel light, and often take only an M body and Elmarit ASPH 28 because it's light and compact. I go about 3 times a year and while I have taken a Fuji XT2 and big zoom on a couple of trips, to shoot the Mille Miglia, for example, I prefer not to play sherpa while on vacay. Seems I've been able to do just about any shooting I needed to with that 28 Elmarit. Occasionally I'll really push the envelope and include either my Elmarit 90/f2.8 or a fast 50.

Your photos are really nice, and I was struck at the consistency of great exposure. I too cannot believe a photo requires no post, and have to force myself to leave well enough alone and just enjoy it.

I would love to have an SL in my inventory, however, I used to shoot larger DSLRs and have been happy to move away from larger bodies. I have a CL coming tomorrow with handgrip and Leica M adapter to shoot M lens on it. My next step in light travel.

Great photos and story! I really enjoy your travel stories and camera reviews!

Your B&W work is lovely. You deserve a M10M.
Your writing is excellent and much appreciated.
I lived in Minnesota two different times and visited the BWA once with a friend who owned a lakeside cabin from 1907. It was filled with all the National Geographic’s from before 1940.
You refreshed my memories. When I was there, water resistant cameras did not exist as they do today. That would have been nice.
I take it your canoe never swamped or you would have reported such.
Keep up the good work.
Jack

Hi Kim! I actually have the CL + 35mm TL lens and it's a great combo, but like you mentioned, the SL2 is in a class of its own in terms of image and build quality. And, with your existing M & TL lenses, the SL2 probably makes the most sense. With the SL2's full-frame sensor, you won't have to sacrifice focal length with your M lenses. With the Leica CL's APS-C sensor and 1.5x crop factor, a 50mm M lens would become a 75mm, a 35mm would become a 50mm, etc. On an SL2 the same lens would remain a 50mm and at nearly double the resolution. What's more, you can put your APS-C format 35 TL lens on the SL2, switch it to APS-C mode and get nearly the same resolution as you would on its native CL sensor (about 24 MP), so your not losing anything by shooting a TL lens on an SL body. Also, the SL2 is a little more future proof – more resolution and newer technology. And, if you eventually pick up a native, Summicron-SL prime lens, you'll have the option to have a fully weather-sealed setup. Hope that helps!

Thanks for reading Harry! The SL Summicrons were a game-changer for me. Prior to their release, I mostly shot M lenses on the SL as well. Excited to see what Leica has in store for the SL system.

Nice article and photos! I’m originally from northern Wisconsin and lived in Duluth, but have never been to the boundary waters, but have heard from others it’s an amazing place! I have a used SL and 24-90 coming this week and am very excited, and nervous, about it… I’ve been using various digital M’s since late 2010 and using something this hefty is going to be a change!

After reading the DXOMark review for the 35SL, I would say it was rated poorly – it is in their top 10. They said that it was sharper wide-open than every other 35mm, that it had no measurable distortion, the highest correction of CA and that it transmitted more light than most f/1.8 lenses. The one place I wouldn't agree with their assessment was in regards to sharpness and resolving power. The 35 SL is one of the sharpest lenses ever designed by Leica. I've seen the Leica measured (not theoretical) MTF charts for this lens and they're insane, more what you'd expect from the best 90 APO, not a 35. I've personally used the lens on the SL2 and it's stunning. So, either they got a slightly bad copy (which is extremely unlikely due to Leica QA) or their testing methodology is flawed in some way. Basically, their sharpness findings directly contradict my personal observations, as well as those from other photographers/reviewers. If any one aspect of their test stands out, it's that they used a Panasonic S1-R for testing, not a Leica SL2. Considering these cameras have different microlens designs on the the sensor, and that the Leica lens is optimized for the Leica camera, I'd say this could be the biggest factor in the results from their test not quite matching up to others who have used it on the SL2.

Hİ,
I am a landscape photographer coming from gfx medium format system to SL2. As you can know i am very pickey for edge to edge sharpness. GFX system has that but without dimention and lifelike warmness of leica glass. My lens setup depends ın the prime lens i choose. If i go with 35mm apo then the set will be Sigma 14-24mm , 35mm apo ,75mm apo. If i choose 50mm apo then 16-35mm,50mm apo and 90mm apo.. Sould i listen Karbe and buy he best one which is 35mm apo or 50mm apo is also as good? Which one is more medium format like sharp but has the 3d drawing of leica more?
Thanks
Ahmed

Great pics. Great adventure. I'm very envious.

I have an SL myself and I'm still a little confused as what should be my “favourites menu” (The one that comes up by the upper left button). What do you have? A pic or listing would be welcome.

Alex

New to the forum.
Great adventure story and pics Kirsten. BWCA now on my “bucket list”
Thanks

Thanks for a great article and beautiful images! I've loved the SL Summicrons for a while, currently just using M lenses on my SL2 and SL2-S. I will likely pick up a SL prime soon though!

I updated the firmware on my CL with no problem. On the CL I use the Panasonic 16-35 lens and that seems to be working as it did before this update: well.
However…
I updated the firmware on my SL601. On my SL I often use the Sigma 45DN lens (as well as the Panasonic 24-105). Upon updating and importing my saved settings, the SL defaulted the sensor to APSC. The only way to restore full frame was to delete the settings, reset the camera completely and reset my settings. A bit of a pain! At least the camera is now functioning properly.

Thanks David,
Excellent as usual.
Your YouTube videos were helpful. When I saw how high you were shooting in ISO I was surprised. Setting Auto ISO was the answer, and a good procedure.
Jack

Is this price increase only for the US Market?