Forum Replies Created
Welcome, Terence! Nice kit… I still have and use an M2 I bought in 1967. And the 90 Tele-Elmarit I bought the next year. I don't have your 135 or 50, but just a couple years ago picked up the same “goggled” 35 Summaron, which is “Summicron-good” IMO. Your lenses should work fine on the M8.
But as you mention IR filters, there's that chain of consequences arising from the use of the M8 due to its IR sensitivity. I tried to ignore it and finally gave in. The next step is adopting the IR filters, which causes faintly cyan corners, which the camera can eliminate if it “knows” more about the lens… the next step being coding for that purpose (which also puts some useful info in the EXIF).
Once I accepted and dealt with all that, the M8 has been a delight to use. I had DAG code the lenses I intended to use, and while he had them, also check and adjust the focus to spec. Some were off… and digital is pickier about that than film. DAG could get that filter off too, and make sure all is well with the lens.
Good shooting!
DougJack, of these your first one appeals to me the most. Graceful lines, attractive composition and color.
David Farkas;4655 wrote: Under File menu, try Import from Another Catalog…
This should work. If not, you'll have to export the containing folder as a catalog and import that way.
Thanks, David… One of those that is obvious in retrospect! I had missed seeing that. And maybe I navigated the import settings dialog incorrectly. The group of photo folders that I worked on in the beta had already been imported into the LR4 catalog that was converted, but hadn't been processed. So after the LR5b catalog was imported, the settings used were absent.
I think I'll have to delete those folders from the current catalog before importing them from the beta catalog (hopefully the Settings will then appear)…
I did some work in the LR5 beta. The release version converted my LR4 catalog into a LR5 catalog. I'd like to merge the 5beta catalog into this main LR5 catalog, but I don't see how to do that. Thanks for any helpful suggestions. :confused:
Hi Victor – I'm a bit out of date, but the two I've used over the years are:
Camera Techs
2034 NW Market St (Ballard)
206/782-2433Photo-tronics Inc.
513 Dexter Ave N.
206/682-2646The M3 is a standard that most any competent repair tech should be able to CLA… After moving east of the mountains I used a small shop in Yakima, and he did excellent work on my M2. Until he retired and closed the shop… 🙁 Good luck!
By the way, Camera Techs used to be located on Univ Way NE about 52nd, and after they moved out to Ballard, another tech worked out of their old shop… He scooped up some previous CT customers but I had terrible experience there.
Indeed this is great news, even astoundingly good news, and this should save everyone time trouble and expense in dealing with a possibly recurring problem. It also seems to confirm that previously this has been solved in software remapping rather than sensor replacement.
I chose not to use it. It came out briefly when unboxing the camera, then after a moment of admiration for detail, it went right back into the box. Safe there.
Nice, Jack! I like all the textured gizmos an doodads.
Scott, this is not my genre, but the X2 looks to be doing very well for you! Impressive little camera.
Hi Andrew — No, the FP shutter is used for every exposure, whether the LS operates or not. I believe the sequence is: Leaf shutter closes, Mirror rises, lens aperture stops down, FP shutter opens, leaf shutter opens and closes, FP shutter closes, lens aperture opens, mirror drops, and leaf shutter opens again for viewing. If the leaf shutter is absent or turned off, then obviously delete references to it above. 🙂
Rolophoto;4217 wrote: Alex, I took it on Friday afternoon at the Fiddlers Ferry Power Station at Widnes in the UK.
…I had wondered how the “Fiddlers” came to be in your title! A powerful photo…
I'm not fond of cold weather, but it has its visual attractions. And to see stuff you have to be there… This is part of our rodeo grounds and the track around it.
165mm f/2.8
I've tried a variety of Pentax 67 lenses on my S2 and posted some results earlier. At last I got out my 165mm f/2.8 and gave it some action. I'm pleased that it's sharper than my Leaf Shutter 165mm f/4 used at the Grand Canyon. These are processed in LR4, exported as TIFF and converted full-size to JPEG. Default noise and sharpness settings in LR, set 5 for both purple and green fringing, then a small sharpening in GraphicConverter during JPEG conversion. Comments welcome!
Alex AR;4091 wrote: …Do you know any workarounds for both issues (besides deactivating the sleep mode)?
How about skipping the cable connection and go with a card reader?
antonybphoto;3927 wrote: Thanks Doug,
great examples of lenses. The grill and polishing man are massive camera shake for sure. I think ISO 640 is useable as you suggested, 320 is more than ok.
Really appreciate the examples i hope to give back also when i start shooting.
Regards,
Tony
Hi Tony — The guy polishing his orange car was shot at 1/60 and the motion blur you see is subject movement, as he was vigorously polishing the paint… His whole upper body was moving. On the MG grill the only way I could tell for sure there was camera shake is that the dust spots on the upper chrome are all slightly smeared in the same direction. I don't detect obvious camera shake on any others… However, it sure is true that the high resolution reveals defects all the more clearly!
