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120mm has been sold,
ThanksPrice reduction: 3.100,00eur + transport and Paypal fees.
Be quick, most probably gone next wednesday.Following Capture Integration dealer it is possible to work on 1/1000s sync speed with the Pocketwizard III plus. Their ‘speed' mode does work to 1/1000s even if the specs state 1/500s max. The only other model compatible with 1/1000s in the PW range are the expensive MultiMax.
Can the Profoto Airsync be used to trigger an external SF58 flash at 1/1000s ?
(1 transmitter on the S2 with CS lens and 1 receiver connected to some sort of hot shoe with mini jack f.i. and plugged to the SF58 in manual mode) :confused:My laptop lightroom version was 5.4. No 100mm Summicron listed.
I've just updated to 5.5 and the 100mm is now listed.
This is definitively new 😎Take a rope and use it to draw a S. Then extend the base from the top to make a longer S. Applied to an histogram you'll get deeper blacks and more highlights but also flatter medium tones.
At least on DSLR it's my dummy understanding on how I see the images rendering evolving with the new sensor generations.Never had to fight with the cursors to try getting richer medium tones with my Phase One IQ back although it's DR is quite huge also. Maybe because MF systems are using extensible ropes :confused:
Really interesting discussion.
I also think that you can have too much of a good thing.
My Sony A7r files are processed in C1 with a black point at +7 as a starting point. With other settings to balance this effect I find the files a bit closer to the S2/medium format look.The flatness of the medium tones of the D800 was the main reason I've sold it.
The A7r I think is better in that regard but still doesn't come close to the S2 in overall presence.From some users comments I was expecting some issue with the reduced DR of the S2 but, after 3 months of use, I'm convinced it's a key element in the wonderful way it renders light.
Do you guys have an accurate focus with your 24mm ?
The one I tested is back focussing.
I know that the center focus sensor is wide and covers a wide area on a wide angle lens, but even with an obvious subject (like a tree in a field) back focussing can be seen (more obvious on far subject, less present when close focussing).
Moreover judging focus in the viewfinder is not really possible (to my eyes at least) when shooting a far landscape.
So AF better be accurate (although it seems that focussing just before the infinity symbol do work for most of my shots).
