Forum Replies Created
David Farkas;4816 wrote: The battery in the grip should be drained first, then go to the one in the body once the grip battery is empty. This allows you to just swap the grip battery without having to remove the grip to access the main battery. This has been my personal experience and the experience of all the S/S2 users I've worked with.
Hmm, my experience has also been that both batteries are drained equally. That is on the S2.
fotografz;4421 wrote: The only way a SF58 can provide TTL exposure is when it is set to TTL-HSS and mounted directly in the S2/S hot shoe.
You can use the Nikon SC28 or 29 cable to mount the SF58 off camera on the S2 and still retain the TTL-HSS capability (the contacts are in exactly the same positions on the S2 as on Nikon cameras). You can even use up to three of these cables linked to get the SF58 further away from the camera. Not as elegant/sophisticated as Marc's other suggested wireless solutions but can be useful in some applications.
Regards, MartinI'd probably just buy another Elmarit 2.8 90 second hand, in good condition and swap the bayonet to get 6-bit coding (assuming that you would be much more likely to find a non 6-bit coded lens second hand, or it would be cheaper to buy than a 6-bit coded lens). Then I'd sell damaged lens with the non 6-bit bayonet second hand, for whatever you can get for it.
I have cleaned the M9 and S2 sensors many times using the Giottos Rocket, Eclipse and sensor swabs. The sequence – blow with the Rocket, wet clean, blow with the Rocket again. Yes, it takes a few tries before the sensor is clean (what helps is to start cleaning in the middle of the sensor and push with the swab gently towards the edge. Then turn the swab around and use the clean side for the other half of the sensor. I rarely use more than 2-3 swabs before the sensor is clean. I know that other people advocate sending the camera to a service centre and discourage wet cleaning but, given the rate at which a new M9 sensor gets covered with dirt/lubricant drops during the first months of use, the camera would have to be in the service centre permanently. And what else do Leica technicians do to clean the sensor? I don't know but I suspect they just use sensor swabs and Eclipse…So I see no other solution than to persevere and do it myself.
Josh Lehrer;4243 wrote: In the Leica S2, the fastest SD card you can use is a class 10 SDHC card. It is not compatible with anything faster. Per a CF card, it is compatible with a UDMA6 card but not the newer UDMA7 cards. That's one of the advantages that the new Leica S has, full compatibility with the latest 1000x UDMA7 CF cards. I'm getting write speeds 50-60% faster than I was with the S2 and UDMA6 CF cards.
To reiterate, Class 10 SDHC and UMDA6 CF are the fastest cards that you can use in the S2 or the S2-P. Anything newer (SDXC, UHS, UMDA7, etc) will not function properly in the camera.
Hmm… I have been using the Lexar CF UDMA7 1000x 32GB cards in my S2 without any problems. I am probably getting no speed advantage but I have not experienced any issues. The camera is functioning properly.
Testing with the HC 210 that I bought second hand recently, as a cheaper alternative to the Leica 180mm (on the assumption that I would not be using this focal length all that often). Fast and accurate focusing, no problems whatsoever. Also makes the loud clicking sound that Marc describes, when used in the leaf shutter mode – but it works fine. The lens has nice bokeh and reminds me of the Zeiss Hassy lenses in its character, although it is a Fuji lens. Keen to try the HC 50 mm MkII and possibly the 300 mm if and when I do another safari trip.
albertknappmd;3020 wrote: I have used the Visible Dust cleaning sticks with Ecclipse to good effect on several occasions when simple Giotto Rocket Blowing and Arctic Butterfly brushing failed. The wet clean was daunting at first but, if done carefully and calmly, is most efficacious. I agree that it is NOT for the faint of heart. You can practice on a small piece of glass to get an idea. Put the glass inside a small box to mimic the camera chamber. If you feel confident then proceed. If not, send back to Leica.
When I first informed David Farkas of my plan to do this, he almost fainted. He knows how careful and meticulous I am but it is important for all of us not to be intimidated by a procedure that most of us can readily master…
Albert :):):)Oh please, why the drama? Just select the sensor cleaning item in the menu to open the shutter and expose the sensor, then use a rocket blower first, then take a PecPad swab (the one for full frame DSLRs works just fine) and put 2-3 drops of Eclipse on the tip and clean. It's best to use the swab in a pushing motion (rather than pulling) and go from center towards the edges, to push any remaining dirt to the edge of the sensor. I've cleaned my S2 sensor several dozen times this way already, including in safari lodges in Africa, in my car, in a number of other places… exactly the same way as with any other DSLR. No reason to faint or send the camera to the dealer, unless both of your hands are left (Czech saying for clumsy people).
PebblePlace;2882 wrote: I have been considering buy the grip to help with handheld shooting and have some questions:
1) How much flex is there between the camera and grip?
2) I use the RRS L-Bracket, swapping back forth between the grip and bracket adds to the hassle factor. Any work arounds?
3) There was another post about the Multifunction grip resetting the top panel LCD brightness; any word on when we'll see a firmware update to address this?
Thanks.
Hi,
In my experience:
(ad 1) the flex is not noticeable; the grip definitely improves handheld shooting
(ad 2) not aware of any workarounds with the RRS plate (which I also use) – my work-around is that I either take the tripod/RRS plate with me (and no grip) or just the grip (and no tripod/plate). Did a trip in Uganda in July with just the vertical grip and no tripod…
(ad 3) no idea
Regards,
Martin
I use a Heliopan HT (high transmission) SH PMC polarizer which results in just 1 stop of light loss (compared to the usual 2 stops with other polarizers). Definitely an advantage with the S2 when shooting handheld (like from a boat, for example). I also use the Tiffen Hi-Trans Titanium Multi Coated ND 0.6 grad filter (this is a screw-in rotating grad – with my style of shooting, I seldom have the time to fool around with a rectangular filter; what's more, the Tiffen is multi-coated, unlike the rectangular filters…). That's all the filters I normally carry with me. Regards, Martin
Yup, I think I'll be getting a third battery just in case, before I leave for my Africa trip in a month's time…(got the vertical grip today; camera handles much better for me now, even for horizontal shots).
David, now that Leica has introduced the S2 lens adapter for Hasselblad H lenses, is there any closer probability of a similar, fully integrated, adapter for Contax 645 lenses, either from Leica or the company that you have had discussions with?
I had the same problem with my S2 (two lines – one magenta, one green). Was diagnosed as dead pixels; sensor was replaced under warranty; repair took about 10 days incl. shipping. Good to see there is a software solution to fix the affected files but sensor replacement under warranty is the permanent solution.
David Farkas;1807 wrote: The Contax 645 lenses use an electronically controlled aperture with no manual ring on the lens, whereas other lenses like Hasselblad V and Pentax 67 have mechanical aperture rings. If you had a simple adapter (no electronics), you wouldn't be able to control the aperture setting when used on an S2. I've had some discussions with a company attempting to make a C645-S2 adapter by trying to send control signals to the lens.
Presumably, this would then allow focus & metering at open aperture / automatic stop-down? If so, and if priced no higher than the already silly-priced Leica adapters, I'd buy one in a heartbeat and then move quickly to buy the Zeiss 55mm & 120mm before their price doubles…
I bought an ex-demo S2 from the Leica shop in Vienna. Had two hot pixels which showed themselves through vertical lines running across the image (why they were not spotted when the camera was their demo, I don't know). Camera was fixed free of charge within a week (sensor replacement), including shipping. I also had the top LED display changed while the camera was in Solms. So far no other problems, except for one corrupted file (two thick magenta lines running horizontally across the image). I sent the file to the dealer on 9 Jan, still waiting for an answer from Solms as to likely cause but as long as this issue does not reappear, I am happy with the camera as is. The only irritating aspect is that the sensor attracts a lot of dust (as bad as the M9) and cleaning does not help much as I get spots immediately afterwards, when shooting at f11-22. An ultrasonic cleaning system would really be helpful here…
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