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images, finally! thanks!
I've experimented and found that if I fit the Grip, I can hand hold for 2 stops longer in the portrait mode.
This is my finding too! I can't use the S2 without the grip properly. But i do mostly portraits anyway.
For those of you using or just trying this lens, pay attention to where you are holding the lens. I had been placing my hand on the focus dial as usual even though I was on auto focus. Switching it to the zoom dial allowed better balance when the zoom is extended. Makes sense when one is on auto focus anyway. there is value in having a fellow photographer watch how you shoot. I might add that the autofocus on this lens is amazingly handy and accurate.
this was my mistake when I first tested this lens. I think when I get it I will probably fix it with tape, because the focus ring is very loose and the risk to misfocus is important enough to fix it.
what is the shutter-replacement programm? did I miss something?
If you own the pocketwizzards it may also be an idea to adjust the synctimes manually. maybe they open to late or close to early, this can be set manually to adjust it to the needs of the camera
this is an old complaint about this lens, in fact I suggested a focus limiter allready one week after I had it. It is one reason why I don't use this lens anymore for portrait work.
Instead, I use the Hasselblad 100/2.2 and the 150/3.5 with the HC-adapter, and they are great lenses for the S.
My wish is that one day they will make something like a 100 Summicron for the S.
:confused:
well, what was the question?
If you want to spend another 15 k or so for a second camera body? Or for one alone, giving away the S2P?
Personally i don't think a new S3 will bring much improvement, if it is only a new sensor and nothing more baluable. So there will some bodies come to the market in the 5-7 k range, as now, but not that much.
Personally I would stay with the S2P till it breaks and see later what the new camera brings along. Anyway, the prices of S/S2 will not go up, but down so you are on the bright side of life if you wait.
Just my 2 cents
I use the Elpro for Portraits, and it is amazing! But the dof is very very small and the usable focus range is very limited, so that it cannot be used in a shooting with other things than portraits.
Also, I have an issue when screwing off the Elpro, sometimes it is as glued to the lens.
Nevertheless I can really recomend it if you have the use for it
people think it's the same as the LX7 but there are subtle differences. At least in jpg-files.
Nevertheless, I use the D-Lux 6 very often and for most family oriented photos it is a lovely camera, also for some other stuff like quick macros for selling something etc.
I even got the new RAW D-Liux6 which a lot of people say that it is the double the price of the LX7 but hey, the pleasure it provides me is worth every penny.
Stephan, I really like the look of these images too. Care to share your secret sauce and tell us how you arrived at these colors and contrast?
nothing much to say about that 🙂
I do almost all my processing in LR. Depending on the subject (mood, tonality) I choose either a custom preset or modify an existing preset to my taste. It is rare that I use a cross-process but in this particular case I found it interesting because of the green grass and the graphic of the picture.
There are plenty of free presets available for LR that are a good starting point, so I suggest to look out for these and then adapt them to your taste.
Of course, every picture needs individual processing, cleaning the skin (sometimes, not always), brightening the eyes (sometimes), darkening or lighting parts of the picture.
For example picture 1 was for a punky girl with red hair, a hair tattoo and blue eyes, so I started with a preset that adds a bit of drama and blue saturation. Adding some contrast works well with this modell, as she has a very smoth skin. Some sharpnes can be added to the eyes and hair to make the look more intense. It may be necessary to add some brightness to parts of the picture to rebalance the overall look. (180 was used)
Picture 2 was a starting set for a nude shooting. Here I have choosen a warm preset (the same that you see in the portrait above), as I think this fits well to the summer heat that should be felt. But because of the greenish shadows I had to add some red. Also, the upper part (in the shadows of the tree) had to be lit up a bit (about 0,5 EV), and the legs needed a bit of color correction as they were lit by the grass in front of the tree. (HC 100 was used)
As you see, I process every picture differently, hoping to underline the mood that the model and the situation shows.
Nevertheless, I try to stay as close as possible to “traditional” photography, when we choosed a special film for getting the wanted results. I don't like overprocessed or strongly softened photos, even if sometimes a lot of work is needed in some areas, especially in portraits of teenagers.
love the first one 🙂
do you really think 1/1000 is needed?
I think the HC100 is a great addition (and you get automaticall “CS” with it) to the S-Lenses, and as the sensor of the S is a bit smaller you get the best out of the lens.
HC 100/2.2 and S 180 with Elpro
Sorry for the strong postprocessing but I don't like to show my work without it (looks so unfinished)
Lovely portrait with great catchlights in the eyes,I have this lens on order,what is the AF speed like?I have the S120 but it hunts a little too much for fast portrait work…(pity Leica didn't add a focus limiter to it)
I fully agree with you, the fact that Leica ommited to use a focus-limiter makes the 120 almost unusable for fashion and portrait (for me). Btw I wait for a “real” portrait lens like a Summicron 100 or so 🙂
This said, the 180 is much better for portrait, you get a faster AF, but due to the longer range you need a bit more light for shorter shutter speeds. Also, I feel that I get a bit to distant to the model. For me the Hasselblad HC 100 and HC 150 work very well for me too.
Here another one from this shooting with the 180 (without Elpro, of course)
interesting thing about the sharpnes of the 70, as i always felt that it was less sharp than the other S-lenses. And I have probably one of the first lenses.
very nice shot! Would you consider to share some settings? (for me the 70 doesn't work well if I don't stop down)
you can search the net for DOF calculators that take in account the sensor size and make the calculation for each lens. Unfortunately, the S-sensor is rarely covered, so this search is not easy. There are more calculators – apps, so probably the search there will be more easy (still keep in mind that you need a calculator that covers the S-sensor or something similar (like Hasselblad 39 or so)
update:
I found a calculator, you can choose the Pentax 645D which has roughly the sensor size of the S2 http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
It is one of the main advantages of the S-system to get a small DOF when the lens quality is at it's optimum (at 5,6) and that even wide open they are much better than what you can get from any 35mm lens.
I think I remember having read somewhere that the Hasselblad adapter is also quite tight, but that it does click in place.
yes it is extremely tight and the button is so small that a klick is almost not noticable. But no problems so far with the Hasselblad adapter
