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I use LR for basic adjustments and then move into Photoshop for things like skin retouching, etc. From a workflow perspective LR and Photoshop work seamlessly. Right click on an image in LR, choose edit in Photoshop, make the edits, close and save and the finished image is back in LR. From there I export it in the format and size needed. I don't use profiles because I shoot such a wide variety of subjects in different lighting scenarios…people, landscape, product…with and without strobes…and have found that no one preset is right for all those scenarios. I typically shoot Color Checker Passport to get a starting point for my WB…and I have my camera's WB set to the appropriate lighting…but never to Auto. I want a constant WB that I can sync to in LR. Over the years I have learned to trust my eyes when it comes to post processing. Simple as it may sound…this has actually been one of the more difficult things for me to learn. If you're the type of person who watches tutorials I'd recommend George Jardine's …they are the best I've come across.
Jack, I'm going to limit myself to picking my favorite shot, which is the one with the file name that begins with i-dkR. (As an aside…where did those weird names come from?) I like the sky best in that one. I'm a sucker for cloud formations…we have lots of them down here in Florida. I don't see a triptych here, but if anyone can make it happen it's you!!!
Just a follow up post to let you know I finally (2 months+) got my 120 CS back and it is working perfectly. Updated firmware on my S2 and all lenses and have encountered no problems at all. Aside from the repair taking too long I've got no complaints.
peterv, talk about adding insult to injury!!! Leica service should be ashamed of themselves for sending that lens back to you without the latest firmware and having testing it to make sure it was functioning properly. My lens has been gone two months now. Leica told me yesterday that it was scheduled to be repaired by today. If they're on schedule I should have it back in a week or so and will update this thread after I test it.
Please do the same when you get your lens returned…again 🙁
Curious to hear from those who have gotten back their repaired 120mm CS lenses. How's the AF working? How long did the repair take/cost?
Thanks for posting this Jack. Like you guys I have fond memories of our New England trip and Joe. Great guy as well as a talented photographer.
You might find this thread helpful…
http://www.reddotforum.com/showthread.php/971-Radio-triggers-capable-of-syncing-at-1-1000-s
Bob,
Congrats on your new Move pack…you're going to love it. After shelling out the $$ to upgrade to CS lenses I've been frustrated by not being able to utilize their higher sync speed capabilities until now. I recently found out the hard way that 1/125th sync speed is sometimes insufficient to freeze motion when shooting handheld with a fair amount of ambient light irrespective of the flash duration.
I hope you'll share your sync experiences with the new kit when you get around to using it.
David
Marc,
Looks like it's 4.5…and the two outlets are fully asymmetrical.
David
I've been going back and forth with my friend Dave McRitchie and his tech guy Chris Valites at Capture Integration on this issue and doing a little testing myself. Turns out that the flash duration of the pack has quite a bit to do with whether you can sync at higher shutter speeds. With my new Broncolor Move 1200 pack the flash duration is so short (at minimum power) that I can sync to 1/1000th with either my Pocket Wizards set to FAST mode or the Bron RFS 2 transmitter that comes with the pack. Looking at the images and histogram on the camera there is virtually no light fall off between 1/125th and 1/750th and only minimal fall off at 1/1000th. Nothing that couldn't easily be tweaked in post. The same test with my Mobil A2R and Verso A4 packs yielded dramatically worse results…so much fall off that high shutter speed sync is a non-starter for those packs. I haven't tested what happens at higher power settings but would expect that fall off will increase in inverse proportion to the flash duration. If and when I get around to doing that I'll post a follow up.
David K … have you thought about using the AIR transmitter, and an AIR receiver unit plugged in to your Broncolor pack? While it won't allow adjustment of levels like with a Profoto AIR pack, it'll trigger it from great distances without the hard-wire limitations.
You wouldn't need the more expensive AIR radio units with level controls, just the base units … one set to transmit, and the other to receive.
I do that with an older Hensel pack that doesn't have AIR built in.
-Marc
Came across this while researching the use of the AIR transmitters with my new Bron Move 1200 kit.To sync everything together, we had to use the Profoto Air Sync receivers. In my initial tests before heading out to the hill, I found out the Air Sync’s were not outputting enough power to trip the Move power pack. My Pocket Wizards tripped the pack fine, but for some reason the Profoto’s didn’t want to play nice. Unfortunately, the only wireless flash system on the market that is able to sync at 1/1600 with the Phase are the Profoto Air Syncs. Time to MacGuyver a solution, and that we did. Profoto Air Sync to Nikon SB-800. The Move was placed on ‘Cell’ and was able to see the Nikon inside it’s protective case, still affording the 1/1600 durations we were hoping for. The Air Syncs mysteriously stopped syncing for an hour on the mountain, possibly the cold got to them, but that is why you see the red sync cord in the video briefly. I’ve let Broncolor know about my findings between the pack and the Air Sync and will hopefully update when there is more info.
Full article here…http://www.mikelastphoto.com/blog/2013/02/testing-the-new-broncolor-move-1200-system-mount-st-louis-moonstone-on/
Got a friend who has access to this combination who's supposed to try it out for me.
Leica should make repairing these faulty 120's and getting them back to their owners a priority. In other words…move these lenses to the top of the cue, fix them and ship them back promptly. I've had my fair share of Leica gear needing to be repaired. I'm happy to say that in every case the repair was handled satisfactorily, albeit not always as quickly as I would have hoped. I suspect David and Josh have quite a bit to do with this. And while I'm not thrilled about having a nearly new lens fail there's still no other camera system, irrespective of cost, that I'd rather have.
I just had precisely the same thing happen to my 120 CS. Whirring sound for several seconds…and will not AF. My other lenses all work fine…even my Contax zoom with adapter is working. Nothing precipitated this failure. Worked fine last time…now it doesn't.
Jack, like you I first tried my hand at long exposures on David's Fall foliage trip. I remember how we all snapped up those ND filters when we saw what we could get using them.
Peter, I think you've identified the key elements…not all of which are under my control. It can take a lot of trips to the beach before the stars are in alignment and you get the clouds, waves and colors to be right. For me sharpness really doesn't come into play too much in images like this. I've no doubt there's diffraction in this image due to stopping the lens all the way down. But it gets lost in the overall softness of the image.
Thanks to both of you for your kind comments.
This is a fantastic capture Jack. I'd print it and hang it on the wall.
