wow.. picked my one up today from Leica Store Mayfair UK… thanks Leo
I have to say that it is a superb item in size and weight with perfect balance on my S2 with Grip…until now I have been using the great Hasselblad 55-110 with adaptor but with some issues regarding weight for general walkabout… this new Leica is certainly lighter and far easier to carry around all day. I particularly wanted this for travel as I will be visiting Australasia and the South Seas soon..
I have not used it yet on a serious shoot but will report back when I have. I would point out that the Hood is not that secure in place and could easily be lost when the unit is carried over your shoulder..
for now I cant wait to get seriousAndy, congratulations on getting the 30-90mm. That lens is at the top of my purchase list. It is a very flexible focal range and has the typical Leica S character – sharp with excellent OOF rendering.
The little time I spent demoing the lens lead me to the conclusion that the lens hood may not be of much value when the lens is at the mid to longer end of the focal range. Considering the flare resistance of the S lenses, I am not sure it is worth using the lens hood. That goes against my normal approach as I normally always use a lens hood, but I may not when I get the 30-90mm.
Mark Gowin;4057 wrote: Andy, congratulations on getting the 30-90mm. That lens is at the top of my purchase list. It is a very flexible focal range and has the typical Leica S character – sharp with excellent OOF rendering.
The little time I spent demoing the lens lead me to the conclusion that the lens hood may not be of much value when the lens is at the mid to longer end of the focal range. Considering the flare resistance of the S lenses, I am not sure it is worth using the lens hood. That goes against my normal approach as I normally always use a lens hood, but I may not when I get the 30-90mm.
thanks Mark
I was thinking about leaving the Hood off myself but considering the price I prefer to use a clear glass Filter to protect the front Element…that in mind and the possibility of flare I will use the Hood and secure it with black tape… I do not need to take it off…Can’t wait to get my hands on this lens as well! It will really improve the workflow of on-location shoots.
David/Josh…As these are now in the market, any word on when US customers can expect the 35-90?
Ddanois we are just as excited as you to get our hands on this lens. I believe they will begin shipping in the USA next week, although I won’t make a formal announcement until I have 100% confirmation. Keep an eye on the main page of Red Dot Forum for updates.
Will Do!
Thanks for the update.
___________________
Derek DanoisCongrats for the new lens.
Does the lens extend when one zooms?
And do you mind to tell the widest f-stop at 35,50 and 70mm?
Thanks a lot.Paratom;4063 wrote: Congrats for the new lens.
Does the lens extend when one zooms?
And do you mind to tell the widest f-stop at 35,50 and 70mm?
Thanks a lot.http://s.leica-camera.com/en/DOWNLOADS
Hi
this gives all info on lens…I have attached photo I took on my iphone showing a credit card size next to it..the front extends appx 1-3/4″ from 30 to 90 in continuous line.
hope this helps
Andy
Hi Andy. I had read the Leica info but a) they only say the f-stop at 35, 60 and 90mm, and at 90mm they say f5.0 which seems wrong? because it should be f5.6 at 90mm?
Paratom;4065 wrote: Hi Andy. I had read the Leica info but a) they only say the f-stop at 35, 60 and 90mm, and at 90mm they say f5.0 which seems wrong? because it should be f5.6 at 90mm?
Hi
I have just checked and we get the following
30=3.5
45=4.3
60=4.9
75=5.3
90=5.6this is normal variation pro rata
hope this is useful for you
Andy:)Fortunately, the camera and lens combination are smart enough to know when you are wanting to shoot at the wide-open aperture. For example, if you are at f3.5 with the lens zoomed to 30mm, then zoom to 90mm the aperture goes to f5.6, but when you zoom back to 30mm the aperture goes back to f3.5 just as it should.
andyc;4066 wrote: Hi
I have just checked and we get the following
30=3.5
45=4.3
60=4.9
75=5.3
90=5.6this is normal variation pro rata
hope this is useful for you
Andy:)Thanks a lot!
any more experience with this lens. How does it work for you, how is the handling, how you get along with the speed? I am getting more interested in it.
Thanks a lot, TomHi Tom
I have not had the chance yet except the first test done on a dull day.. I love the feel of this Lens with smooth zoom, balance and weight.
The results are superb and with 30mm just 1/2 stop over the fixed one the difference is not noticeable at full 100% on my Mac.
I used 320 ISO f9.5/180. there is no sign of Moire or colour change. The edges are as sharp as the fixed Lens with little softening as usual. very slight Blue colour Fringe (C.A)
on edges, easily fixed in Photoshop. all this disappears above 30mm.
I am going to brighter climes soon where the daylight is superior to UK this time of year and will really have the chance to examine results taken on a perfect travel Lens that has been long awaited. I would have no hesitation in buying this ‘Travel’ Lens if you can find one.andyc;4084 wrote: Hi Tom
I have not had the chance yet except the first test done on a dull day.. I love the feel of this Lens with smooth zoom, balance and weight.
The results are superb and with 30mm just 1/2 stop over the fixed one the difference is not noticeable at full 100% on my Mac.
I used 320 ISO f9.5/180. there is no sign of Moire or colour change. The edges are as sharp as the fixed Lens with little softening as usual. very slight Blue colour Fringe (C.A)
on edges, easily fixed in Photoshop. all this disappears above 30mm.
I am going to brighter climes soon where the daylight is superior to UK this time of year and will really have the chance to examine results taken on a perfect travel Lens that has been long awaited. I would have no hesitation in buying this ‘Travel’ Lens if you can find one.Hi Andy,
I second your findings. I had been using the H35-90 and finally received this lens and really like it versus the H in terms of handling, sharpness, colors … My initial thoughts are that this is a winner for travel.Absolutely right Arif, a definite winner for Travel
very glad you have one as well.
Andyandyc;4086 wrote: Absolutely right Arif, a definite winner for Travel
very glad you have one as well.
AndyI totally agree with your view: now there is finally a travel solution without much compromise. Couple it with a 180 and you have a nice allround kit.
until now I have been using the great Hasselblad 55-110 with adaptor
how is the Leica compared to the Hasselblad?
I was very tempted by this lens because it covers a large range of what I shoot, in particular when traveling, and thus should reduce the need to change lenses. Last week, I received an offer that I could not refuse (demo lens from Leica that my dealer received), and yesterday and today I took the lens for a first test drive. Light was not great on both days (overcast and today snowing).
The lens is heavy, but once you get used to it, it’s not too bad. The camera is better balanced at the short end of the zoom than at the long end, because the lens then extends quite a bit and there is quite a lot of weight at the front end, pulling the camera down a bit. Build quality wise–well it’s a Leica S lens. That says it all. Image quality: I am hard pressed to see a difference between the 35 and the 70, on the one hand, and the 30-90 on the other. Frankly, I think one would have to look at the results side-by-side. But that after one day–and I am not really interested in these types of tests.
What I can say that is that after two test walks, I am very happy with the lens. I think it will allow me to get shots that I otherwise would have missed, because if lack of time to change lenses or because I only had one lens with me. Note: Ever since I switched to the M in 2005, the only zoom I used was the 28-35-50 MATE, so I am not the zoom freek. But I think I will use this one a lot.
Just one shot, hand held at 45 mm, when we were getting ready to drive to the park with our dog who is crazy about the snow. (I cropped a bit the bottom part.)
Georg,
for some reason I cant open the attachment but I really would like to see the image. TomHere it is
GMB;4118 wrote: Here it is
This looks good, sharp (and cold).
Can you shoot a wide open night shot that displays Bokeh?
Wow…that’s impressive for a zoom.
RVB: as I said in my earlier post, I was not able to detect a difference in sharpnes between the zoom and the 70 or 35.
David, will do next week.
Georg, thanks for posting this wonderful shot. I really like the winter colors you captured, very nice atmosphere.
In the EXIF I noticed 1/60 shutter time. This was on tripod I presume? Incredibly sharp…
It was actually handeld. Grabbed it on the way to the car to walk the dog.
that’s really beautiful!
Hi there, I am considering Leica S strongly due to the existence of this lens. I shoot interior so distortion is very important to me as well. Is there any chance you can shoot a grid at the major focal lengths you listed below and post samples or see if you can get it to true rectlinear by the lens correction adjustment slider in ACR / Lightroom? I would typically shoot mid to long distance with mid aperture (f16 in this case maybe?)
I compared the MTF between this zoom and the equivalent primes but a chart is not as good as a real test.
There aren’t many samples around for some of us to do this test. If you could help I will be very very grateful.
Steve
andyc;4066 wrote: Hi
I have just checked and we get the following
30=3.5
45=4.3
60=4.9
75=5.3
90=5.6this is normal variation pro rata
hope this is useful for you
Andy:)I have not had the chance to test this myself but Leica Camera offers very thorough lens data documents on their downloads page (at the bottom):
http://www.s.leica-camera.com/en/DOWNLOADS
The documents include distortion charts, among other things, and you could compare the distortion of the 30-90mm to the fixed focal length lenses too!
Thanks and I did compare them already. The 30mm seems to be slightly better as a prime. It is S shaped and I was just wondering if it can be corrected easily. The only way is to see a real lens shooting grids at this point for an easy answer. I did contact Leica and seemed to get no answer.
Through experience my Nikon 17-35 f2.8 was so horrible for interior work. I ended up with the 16-35 f4 to get better result but still there is parabolic shape sometimes… I only dare to use my PC-E with lines near edges at the moment.
Josh Lehrer;4435 wrote: I have not had the chance to test this myself but Leica Camera offers very thorough lens data documents on their downloads page (at the bottom):
http://www.s.leica-camera.com/en/DOWNLOADS
The documents include distortion charts, among other things, and you could compare the distortion of the 30-90mm to the fixed focal length lenses too!
Stevie Rave On;4432 wrote: Hi there, I am considering Leica S strongly due to the existence of this lens. I shoot interior so distortion is very important to me as well. Is there any chance you can shoot a grid at the major focal lengths you listed below and post samples or see if you can get it to true rectlinear by the lens correction adjustment slider in ACR / Lightroom? I would typically shoot mid to long distance with mid aperture (f16 in this case maybe?)
I compared the MTF between this zoom and the equivalent primes but a chart is not as good as a real test.
There aren’t many samples around for some of us to do this test. If you could help I will be very very grateful.
Steve
Hi Steve
I do not have the facilities for this type of test but I have taken many outside Building shots where verticals need correcting using my CS5 software and these are good but not perfect (every radial distortion correction results in a fault elsewhere however slight it might be)…I have never used Lightroom and its built in Lens correction adjustment..
However, I would not recommend this Lens for exacting interiors as is your need, there are obvious drawbacks to Zooms. I found the edges softer than the 30mm Prime and ‘Barrel’ was obvious the closer you were to the subject on top of focal length.
I am sorry not to be of any help to you and would suggest maybe a wide PC Lens on Nikon or for Medium format… Hasselblad offer a tilt/shift adapter for their own HS Lens ranges, great for converging verticals albeit time consuming.andyc;4439 wrote: Hi Steve
I do not have the facilities for this type of test but I have taken many outside Building shots where verticals need correcting using my CS5 software and these are good but not perfect (every radial distortion correction results in a fault elsewhere however slight it might be)…I have never used Lightroom and its built in Lens correction adjustment..
However, I would not recommend this Lens for exacting interiors as is your need, there are obvious drawbacks to Zooms. I found the edges softer than the 30mm Prime and ‘Barrel’ was obvious the closer you were to the subject on top of focal length.
I am sorry not to be of any help to you and would suggest maybe a wide PC Lens on Nikon or for Medium format… Hasselblad offer a tilt/shift adapter for their own HS Lens ranges, great for converging verticals albeit time consuming.You can use the Hasselblad TS adaptor on the S…
Thanks guys for your feedback. Life is filled with tough choices – convenience vs. perfection. Yes Hassy H on TS for the S is a good option indeed. The 1.5x factor is a little annoying and they are not S lenses though. Do you think at the smaller aperture the lens quality gap is less between H and S?
Hi Andyc,
I am still not giving up on the Leica S and the zoom lens idea yet. I am willing to take the time to custom “warp” extreme cases even after lens correction settings. Do you mind shooting a brick wall for a quick reference at the major focal length stops? It can be handheld, doesn’t have to be super sharp, even if not perfectly square to the wall face, small jpg files. I am still wanting to test tweak them to see if I can live with it. I am putting up with the 16-35 at the moment so maybe 30-90 zoom I can accept as well. I will be forever grateful for your help in this $10,000 question…Steve
RVB;4440 wrote: You can use the Hasselblad TS adaptor on the S…
Does the TS adaptor really work on the Leica S with the Hasselblad adaptor? I think I read somewhere that it doesn’t… but now insecure. Has anybody tested it? I guess adaptor on adaptor may have problems with the communications.
I saw this post in another thread. It makes sense to me.
http://www.reddotforum.com/showthread.php/694-S2-and-HTS-1.5The benefit of a shift lens is you get 2 focal lengths out of 1 lens when you consider shift and stitch to get a wider view. The 1.5x factor destroys that added benefit. I suppose you have to limit the imaging circle coverage to make room for tilt and shift.
Alex AR;4444 wrote: Does the TS adaptor really work on the Leica S with the Hasselblad adaptor? I think I read somewhere that it doesn’t… but now insecure. Has anybody tested it? I guess adaptor on adaptor may have problems with the communications.
Alex AR;4444 wrote: Does the TS adaptor really work on the Leica S with the Hasselblad adaptor? I think I read somewhere that it doesn’t… but now insecure. Has anybody tested it? I guess adaptor on adaptor may have problems with the communications.
This is a late response, but here it is FWIW.
I’m a digital Hasselblad users for many, many years, who’s moving on to Leica S system for a few reason I won’t bore you with. I have shot architecture exclusively going on 30 years plus, and now, a bit of lifestyle now and then for clients who want it.
The HTS works fine on the S2, even the auto-focus surprisingly, since it doesn’t on the H3DII-39 I own. LR5 distortion corrections (since I shoot tethered with LIS2) are not perfect with the 28HCD on the HTS in conjunction with the S2 (but close, and of course no read out in regard to % shift or tilt), but the remaining distortion can be handled with the warp tool in CS5 when needed. Seems to be ok on the 35HC. There are no 24mm distortion corrections available (that I know of) yet for LR5, so it’s no-go there for now.
I own the 30-90 Vario-Elmar (recently purchased). After 8 completed jobs, I’m completely happy shooting interiors with it compared to the H lenses (28, 35, 50-110) that I have been using. In fact, it’s doing just what I hoped. Now mind you, I’m not a pixel peeper, nor an assiduous tester of optics. I look at the MTF info, then use the lens in practical application, and that’s sufficient. Perfection is an elusive goal and IMHO the S lenses in general come closer than anyone else. Seriously, I’m far more interested in the “look and feel” (if I can say that here) of the images I make than technical perfection, but that’s just me. So take this as you will: To this point I have NO issues with lens performance for interior shooting with the 30-90 VE.
Cheers,
Richard
Thank you Richard for the feedback. How is the distortion correction at major focal lengths? Not asking for perfection, but wondering if they can be corrected easily (i.e. no mustache shaped distortion) in post.
Thanks!
Since all I shoot is arch (with quite a bit of interior work), I shoot in the wide range more than the long, and I’m mainly preoccupied with watching for distortion at the edges. The profile(s) in LR5 do the same job as those I’ve used with Phocus. I’ve seen no indication of a poor profile – no barrel, pincushion or mustache distortion apparent when using a profile with the VE.
Now as I said, with the HTS and the 28HCD on the S2, there have been times I found some apparent barrel distortion, but it’s readily fixed in CS5 with the warp tool. There is no profile for the HTS in LR5. But one can hope!
Hope this helps,
Richard
After seven months on order I finally collected the Vario today! looking forward to getting out this afternoon!
Ed
Long wait. I hope you find it as useful a lens as I have.
Congratulations Ed!
BTW, we definitely need more images in this thread.
Finally got mine as well. Extremely pleased with the lens.
David and Josh, may be you guys can let Leica know my simple (firmware) feature request:
With S lens most times I need to get handheld speed of at least 1/2f instead of 1/f. In aperture priority + auto ISO mode, the S supports setting minimum shutter speed of 1/f or a manual setting. Can they also add an option of 1/2f? It will be very convenient when using the zoom lens (I usually set a manual min speed for prime lens as I’m not comfortable with 1/f)Now that 30-90 is available, I wonder if Leica will ever design a tele zoom like a S 90-250mm. One can only wish… (S 45mm is a good example of a wish come true for some)
I’ve experimented and found that if I fit the Grip, I can hand hold for 2 stops longer in the portrait mode.
I’m comfortable shooting below 1/100s, even 1/40s with some losses, whereas without the grip I try and stay shorter than 1/249s. Must be down to camera movement and of course this may only apply to me, but I’ve tested this enough to be certain. To test I stood in front of a mirror and focussed on the lens text with lenses up to 180mm.
Rolophoto;5672 wrote: I’ve experimented and found that if I fit the Grip, I can hand hold for 2 stops longer in the portrait mode.
Could anybody confirm that they had the same experience using the grip?
I could be interested to get the grip if it really works like this.
Andrew
Thank you Josh, the zoom arrived.
David convinced me that this would be a good addition for times when one is in conditions where changing lenses is a challenge. I shoot in snow and rain and dust a fair amount and changing lenses can be a challenge. My work around is to shoot a scene with all shots with the 120 and then go back again with the 35.
The size as you can see is pretty compact for a zoom, thanks to it being a slightly slower lens. This is more compact than the old 24-70 Canon zoom I used ten years ago. I was not worried about the speed, but more interested in still having a bright finder screen. I found the view screen plenty bright. Josh warned me that my split finder on the micro screen would be a challenge, but it works fine for me.
Some have complained about the shade, but it works fine for me.
I never bought the 70mm so additionally, this gives me a nice ability to cover that range too.
JackIt’s been a workhorse for me these last 9 months. Paid for itself many times over. Exceptional performing zoom, easily the best I’ve ever worked with. Paired with a 24, it covers just about everything for me.
I was reading the strobist today and saw a comment about the usefulness of three faster primes, and one slightly slower zoom:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2013/12/without-reservation-recommended-gear.html“If you date cameras, you most certainly marry your lenses. Buy them as if you plan to keep them for 10-20 years or more, as that is exactly what can happen if you choose wisely. I still have and use some wonderful lenses that I purchased in college in the mid-1980s.
In the past, I was a lens speed freak and was willing to spend great sums of money to have very fast glass. I now realize that lust was misplaced. If I had it to do over again (and I do, and have) I would lean more on reasonably fast primes and here’s why.
Moderately fast primes are (much) lighter, (much) cheaper and often just as sharp (or sharper) than their speedy siblings. For instance, the Nikon 28, 50 and 85 f/1.8 trio of lenses are great examples of this. They weigh next to nothing in my bag and offer great performance. Also, I have moved away from primarily using fast zooms. Rather than a fast 24-70/2.8, I’d now opt for a trio of fast-ish primes and a decent, slower zoom to back them up.
This way, you get a stop (plus) faster at each focal length, backups throughout the 24-70mm range and you lose the most daunting aspect of the speed zoom: an expensive single point of failure.”
Good view, and anyway, a fast S zoom would be too huge. David Hobby, the Strobist is not a Leica shooter, but if you set aside his good desire for buying at low cost, not cheap, he gives interesting advice. Marrying your lenses is good advice.
JackHi Jack,
I think the point is that a fast zoom can replace a slow zoom AND primes.
A slow zoom can only be an addition to fast primes (depending when you shoot in low light as well).I am constantly debating with myself if I shoud stay with my Leica S primes or add the zoom and reduce the number of primes.
However I often do shoot the primes in the f2.5-f4 range.One solution might be to have 30-90 and therefore replace 35 and 70 primes with a 45 prime (for indoors and lower light).
However if I compare this to the 2 lens set I often carry (either 30or35 +70) the zoom+45 would be slower, heavier and more expensive.
I would gain the 70-90mm range and most important reduce switching lenses.A faster 30-90 doesn’t make sense IMO, it would be too big and heavy.
This is an interesting discussion, and one that may be subject to change if and when Leica moves to a higher ISO capable CMOS sensor in the S camera.
The S Vario is an enticing lens for its versatility and general usage. It would work in my lens line up because all of my S lenses (and one Hasselblad HC lens) are leaf-shutter. The Vario is not available in CS version, so the redundant prime focal lengths have their place both in lower light, for less DOF, and for use with supplemental lighting.
I’m a bit in Jack’s camp regarding fast aperture MF zooms. I think we are willing to put up with trade-offs in 35mm zooms to gain speed … but would question whether we would on a S camera (?)
The less trade-offs in IQ, the bigger such a lens would become. Even the stalwart Canon/Nikon/Sony 24-70/2.8 workhorse Zooms are monsters relative to faster primes … and I doubt their level of optical performance would satisfy most S owner’s criteria.
30mm @ f/3.5 is actually quite fast for MF …. and 90mm @ f/5.6 is almost mandatory if shooting any human subject with-in a 7 foot distance. (I base this on experience from using the Hasselblad HCD 35-90/4-5.6 on a H4D/40 … an excellent alternative for those that would like a CS Zoom BTW).
Only thing I do not like about the Leica Vario is that the front extends.
– Marc
If we compare to ff cameras I see 3 differences…more limited high ISO of the S, slower lens (in case of the 30-90 compared to f2.8/24-70) plus the need for a slightly shorter exp time.
I use my S a lot handhold and often at f4.0 or wide open.Thats why I am still afraid that -for my purpose- I would always feel to have to carry another faster prime when I owned the 30-90.
do you guys use the 30-90 mostly on tripod or also a lot handheld?
I used the 30-90 extensively on our recent Monument Valley workshop, more than any other lens.
What I liked:
- Not heavy in actual use
- Great to be able to tweak composition slightly without changing lenses
- Great to be able to use in-between settings (I used 60mm quite a bit)
- Nice to keep one filter set on
- Very useful range
- Able to use as a single walk around lens without having to access backpack
- Focuses pretty close
- Performance just about on par with primes
What I didn’t like:
- Slight vignetting at 30mm (easily corrected in LR and not visible in most images)
- Dark corners if using filter ring at 30mm – fine at 33mm
- Not as much DOF control as 70 or 120
All-in all, the 30-90 made for an ideal landscape lens. I’d also feel comfortable using it for hand-held walkaround shooting in decent daylight. Are the 30, 35 and 70 sharper? Probably. Did I feel like I was somehow missing out? Nope. Very happy with the results and the added convenience.
Here is an example of being able to quickly change composition without moving or changing lenses.
The horizontal was shot at 43mm.
The vertical was shot at 56mm. Just the RRS L-plate had to be flipped.
For hand-held shooting, you can see the usefulness here. We photographed a Navajo sheep drive in front of the Totems.
The first is at 58mm.
The wider shot of the whole valley is 30mm.
A detail shot on the ranch at 90mm.
Like I said, very flexible and extremely convenient for this kind of shooting, both on and off the tripod.
David Farkas
Red Dot Forum
Leica Store MiamiI was chatting with fellow Leica photographer Gary today, and got some good advice on handling:
We were doing the usual game of photographers photographing each other with a given piece of equipment and I was hand holding the Vario at 90mm and a low shutter speed. Low being 1/30th after being on auto and dialing in compensation. He could get sharp no-camera movement shots better than I could. He commented that I was too used to shooting prime lenses and my balance was off. He noted that the extension of the lens when zoomed to 90mm had substantially shifted the balance enough that I should shift where I held the lens. He was right, I simply moved my hand further out on the lens and was able to equal his steady results.For those of you using or just trying this lens, pay attention to where you are holding the lens. I had been placing my hand on the focus dial as usual even though I was on auto focus. Switching it to the zoom dial allowed better balance when the zoom is extended. Makes sense when one is on auto focus anyway. there is value in having a fellow photographer watch how you shoot. I might add that the autofocus on this lens is amazingly handy and accurate.
When saying it was hand held, understand that I did have my elbow on a chair arm.
JackJust gotten the Vario. Love the versatility and the weight and size is quite nicely proportioned.
Very nice rendering of the colors in both shots. The second photo, with the man on a bike, has an interesting 3D effect.
Thanks for sharing.images, finally! thanks!
I’ve experimented and found that if I fit the Grip, I can hand hold for 2 stops longer in the portrait mode.
This is my finding too! I can’t use the S2 without the grip properly. But i do mostly portraits anyway.
For those of you using or just trying this lens, pay attention to where you are holding the lens. I had been placing my hand on the focus dial as usual even though I was on auto focus. Switching it to the zoom dial allowed better balance when the zoom is extended. Makes sense when one is on auto focus anyway. there is value in having a fellow photographer watch how you shoot. I might add that the autofocus on this lens is amazingly handy and accurate.
this was my mistake when I first tested this lens. I think when I get it I will probably fix it with tape, because the focus ring is very loose and the risk to misfocus is important enough to fix it.
Here is the handheld shot of Gary at 1/30th that I was referring to in an earlier post quoted below:
This was shot inside a restaurant. The light was coming from the back through an open wall. f5.6 ISO 640 90mm.
Jack
EARLIER post:
I was chatting with fellow Leica photographer Gary today, and got some good advice on handling:
We were doing the usual game of photographers photographing each other with a given piece of equipment and I was hand holding the Vario at 90mm and a low shutter speed. Low being 1/30th after being on auto and dialing in compensation. He could get sharp no-camera movement shots better than I could. He commented that I was too used to shooting prime lenses and my balance was off. He noted that the extension of the lens when zoomed to 90mm had substantially shifted the balance enough that I should shift where I held the lens. He was right, I simply moved my hand further out on the lens and was able to equal his steady results.For those of you using or just trying this lens, pay attention to where you are holding the lens. I had been placing my hand on the focus dial as usual even though I was on auto focus. Switching it to the zoom dial allowed better balance when the zoom is extended. Makes sense when one is on auto focus anyway. there is value in having a fellow photographer watch how you shoot. I might add that the autofocus on this lens is amazingly handy and accurate.
When saying it was hand held, understand that I did have my elbow on a chair arm.
JackSome of you guys might find this interesting,it’s a review of the 30-90 by Niel Morley ..
http://nielmorley.blogspot.com/2013/09/leica-vario-elmar-s-3090-mm-f3556-asph.html
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